Romantic things to do in La Palma

The sky, which nobody expects

La Palma has its own law protecting the sky from light pollution, and it was the first to obtain Starlight Destination and Reserve certification. One of the most advanced telescopes in the world sits up on the ridge.

In practice: on a clear night you see the Milky Way with the naked eye, no equipment and no effort. For anyone coming from a city, that alone justifies the trip.

You do not have to drive up to the Roque de los Muchachos, although it is the place. The island has astronomical viewpoints scattered around: Llano de las Ventas, Llanos del Jable, the San Antonio volcano, Montaña de San Bartolo, Mirador de San Borondón, La Muralla or the Monumento al Infinito, among others.

Two warnings from someone who has been up many times: it is far colder up there than you imagine from the coast, and it pays to check the moon. A full moon washes out the stars.

Sunsets, which here are a serious business

The west of the island faces the Atlantic with nothing in the way, so the sunsets are long and clean.

The Mirador de Las Hoyas, on the LP-213 towards La Bombilla, is the one we recommend. It has parking, you see the whole valley with the banana terraces dropping to the sea, and on clear days El Hierro cuts the horizon.

The other classic is the old stone pier at Puerto de Tazacorte, built in the late nineteenth century. You walk out along it and the sun goes down straight ahead.

A full day as a couple, without extra driving

If you are staying in the valley, this day works well and does not make you cross the island.

Morning

Something easy: the Puerto beach, sheltered by the pier, or a rock pool if you feel like a drive. No early start — you are on holiday.

Midday

Fish by the beach at the port. There are four places and none of them need booking, except in August.

Afternoon

This is where ours fits, and we will say so openly. The Amor Platánico Pack is €180 for two, it is private and we only run one a day: the farm to yourselves, the walk among the plants and a table laid at the end.

At night

Drive up to an astronomical viewpoint. Blankets, something to nibble, nothing else.

If you are planning to propose

It has happened here a few times and we have learned a couple of things.

First: do not leave it to the last day of the trip. If that day brings calima or cloud, you are left with no plan and no room to move it.

Second: tell whoever is running things. If you mention it when you book, we set it up without anyone noticing and then make ourselves scarce at the right moment. A surprise goes better when someone on the inside knows.

And third, the one most often forgotten: if you want photographs, tell someone beforehand. Nobody takes good pictures of a moment like that with a phone and shaking hands.

When to come if it is just the two of you

May, June, September and October. Good temperatures, long days and the island is not full.

August is the busiest month, especially during the fiestas. And in winter the days get noticeably shorter: the sun sets before half past six, which cuts the afternoon badly.

What nobody sells but works

Driving with no destination through the midlands of the west. The roads run between banana terraces, ravines and small villages, and you stop wherever you feel like it.

Going down to a beach midweek out of season. There are days when nobody is there.

And eating late, the way people eat here. Three in the afternoon, unhurried, is when this island makes the most sense.